Muharram with a difference

This article was published in Times of India on 23rd Noavember 2012 Friday
NELLORE: The 10th of Muharram (first month of the Islamic calendar) is observed worldwide to mourn the martyrdom of Hazrath Hussain, the grandson of the Prophet, in Karbala, Iraq some 1400 years ago. But in this coastal town of Andhra Pradesh the mourning replaces a three-day celebration. The occasion that falls on November 25 is called Rottela Panduga or the Festival of Rotis wherein the devotees seek the blessings of the martyrs of Karbala.

Curiously, people from all religions take part in the festival. The devotees do not mourn. They pay respects to the martyrs and pray for the fulfillment of their wishes. They strongly believe that their wishes are answered once they leave a 'roti' near the tank where the event is held and accept the roti left by other devotees.

The festivities are held at a local tank called Swarnala Cheruvu located close to the dargah of Baara Shaheed (12 martyrs). The festival begins with devotees offering prayers to the 12 martyrs from Arcot who sacrificed their lives in a war against the British in 1751. They say that the beheaded bodies of those warriors were laid to rest at this place which came to known as Bara Shaheed dargah.

Rottela Panduga is unique as people of all religions throng Nellore town to offer rotis at the tank and attend prayers in the dargah. Rottela Panduga is now a world famous event as devotees from several neighbouring countries including Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, and the UAE come for the celebrations.

The rotis left in the tank water by aged devotees for getting their wishes fulfilled are picked up by the younger ones seeking fulfillment of their desires and eat them.

"It is widely believed that the martyrs grant the wishes of devotees offering prayers at the dargah," said dargah Mujaver Mohammad Rafi. The wish list of devotees is long and varied. Some come to seek 'chadavula rotte (education roti) and others for aarogyam rotte (health). There are also those who seek aishvaryam rotte (wealth), pelli (marriage) and udyogam rotte (job roti). "A lot of people leave rotis in the tank," said joint collector Lakshmikantham who is overseeing the arrangements for the biggest festival in the region.

In a recent trend IT professionals have started visiting the dargah and leaving videshi udyogam rotte (job in a foreign country). Ace musician A R Rahman, a regular visitor here, is believed to have won the Oscar after picking up adrushta rotte (fortune roti) about three years ago.

The district administration is making arrangements for the smooth conduct of the festivities which begin on Sunday and conclude on Tuesday. The officials are expecting about 4 lakh visitors during the entire festival with about half of them coming on the first day.

Finance minister Anam Ramanarayana Reddy has directed the district collector Sridhar to ensure that no stampede takes place near the dargah. The district administration has set up makeshift toilets and installed lighting on the road to the shrine. Arrangements are also being made to provide drinking water to the pilgrims.